Tile Spacers, Levelling Clips and Epoxy Grout Explained

Walk onto any tile fitting site today and you will see small plastic crosses, red or blue clips sticking out of the joints, and tubs of two-part grout. Twenty years ago most of these were rare on Indian sites. Masons judged joints by eye and filled them with white cement. Today, tile spacers, levelling clips and epoxy grout are standard tools for a reason: tiles have become larger, joints thinner, and clients expect a far cleaner finish.

Here is a plain explanation of what each one does, how it should be used, and where people commonly go wrong.

Tile spacers: keeping joints even

Spacers are small pieces of plastic, usually cross-shaped or T-shaped, placed between tiles to hold a fixed joint width while the adhesive or mortar sets. They come in sizes such as 1, 1.5, 2, 3 and 5 mm.

Choosing the right spacer size

• Rectified vitrified tiles: usually 2 mm, sometimes 1.5 mm for a very tight look.
• Non-rectified tiles: 3 mm or more, because sizes vary slightly from tile to tile.
• Ceramic wall tiles: 2 to 3 mm depending on the edge.
• Rustic or handmade-look tiles: wider joints, often 5 mm or more.

Joints that are too narrow look smart at first but leave no room for size tolerance or movement. Joints that are too wide collect dirt and look dated. Agree the joint width before work begins.

Common spacer mistakes

• Leaving spacers flat at the tile surface and grouting over them, which leaves thin spots in the grout.
• Using spacers of different sizes in the same room.
• Relying on spacers alone when tile sizes vary more than the joint width.

Spacers should be removed once the bed has firmed up, or pushed deep enough that grout fully covers them.

Levelling clips: dealing with lippage

Lippage is the height difference between edges of neighbouring tiles. You feel it with bare feet and see it as a line of light on glossy floors. It is caused by an uneven base, poor adhesive coverage, slightly bowed tiles, or simply pressing one tile down more than the next.

A levelling clip system has two parts: a base strap that slides under the edges of adjoining tiles, and a wedge or cap that is tightened on top. Tightening pulls both tile edges up against the cap so they set at the same height. Once the adhesive cures, the top part is snapped off along a weak line, leaving the base hidden in the joint.

Where levelling clips help most

• Large-format tiles of 600x1200 mm and above.
• Glossy and polished tiles where any lippage shows.
• Wood-look plank tiles, which tend to bow along their length.
• Wall tiles in large sizes, to keep the wall face flat.

What levelling clips cannot do

Clips do not fix a wavy floor or a hollow bed. If the base is out by several millimetres, the clip may hold edges flush while the middle of the tile has a void below it. Clips are a finishing aid for good fitting, not a substitute for it. That is why base preparation, which we describe in our guide to vitrified tile fitting, still comes first.

Clips should also be tightened evenly. Overtightening can pull a tile out of its bed or snap the strap early.

Epoxy grout: a different kind of joint

Traditional grout is cement based. It is economical and easy to use, but porous, so it absorbs water, oil and dirt and slowly changes colour. Epoxy grout is a two-part resin system mixed on site: a resin and a hardener, often with coloured filler. Once cured, it is hard, non-absorbent and resistant to most household stains and chemicals.

Benefits of epoxy grout

• Does not absorb water, so it suits bathrooms, kitchens and wet areas.
• Resists stains from tea, oil, turmeric and cleaning chemicals.
• Keeps colour well, so white joints stay white.
• Available in many colours, including metallic and glitter options.
• Less fungus and mould growth in damp corners.

Things to know before choosing epoxy

• It costs more than cement grout per kilo and needs more skill to apply.
• It has a limited working time once mixed, so small batches are mixed at a time.
• Residue must be cleaned off the tile surface quickly; dried epoxy haze is very hard to remove, especially on matt tiles.
• Joints must be clean and dry, with adhesive raked out to proper depth.

Cement grout or epoxy: where to use which

Sealant joints: the fourth accessory

Alongside spacers, clips and grout, flexible sealant deserves a mention. Joints where tiles meet walls, platforms, bathtubs and other materials, and movement joints in large floors, should be filled with a suitable sealant rather than rigid grout. Sealant allows small movements without cracking and keeps these junctions watertight, especially in kitchens and bathrooms.

A practical checklist for your site

1. Agree the joint width and buy matching spacers.
2. Use levelling clips for large, glossy or plank tiles.
3. Rake joints clean of adhesive before it sets.
4. Choose grout type and colour room by room.
5. For epoxy, confirm the team has experience and enough cleaning time is planned.
6. Keep a little leftover grout or note the shade code for repairs.

These accessories are small, but they are often what separates an ordinary tiled floor from a really clean one. If you want to discuss joint width, clips or grout options for your floor, message us on WhatsApp at 9468916422 or see how our tile fitting and flooring service works. Epoxy filling is also part of our marble fixing work.